A blocky, structured Champagne, with firm acidity framing a pronounced note of peat smoke, offering subtle flavors of roasted walnut, kumquat and dried cherry. Compact on the finish. Best from 2016 through 2018. 3,000 cases made, 400 cases imported.

With some wood fermentation, this is a particularly rich wine. The wood gives roundness and extra richness that is balanced by the mineral and taut texture. The fruit is less important than the texture, a background of crisp apples and tight acidity. This bottling is ready to drink.

(60% pinot noir, 35% chardonnay and 5% pinot meunier from Verzy): Light yellow. Aromas of peach, quinine and melon, with a gentle floral quality. Juicy pit fruit and melon flavors are firmed by tangy minerality, picking up a touch of warmth with air. Finishes on a spicy note, with good cling.